It’s raining men: What was once known as women’s fashion month from early September to early October has in recent years become home to some of the most forward-thinking men’s collections.
Without a dedicated men’s week comparable to its European counterparts, New York has become a center for experimental gender play.
Christian Siriano, whose runway is one of the city’s best examples of body inclusion, added male models to the program for his 15th anniversary show, dressing them in corsets and billowing tutus in homage to ballet.
In New York, Alejandro Gómez Palomo of Palomo Spain and Tanner Richie and Fletcher Kassell, CFDA Vogue Fashion Fund nominees behind Tanner Fletcher, also continued to champion queer aesthetics with retro-inspired collections full of pastels, lace accents and floral prints.
Meanwhile, designer Willy Chavarria created more theater for his show at the city’s historic Woolworth building. Chavarria turned the machismo of Chicano culture on its head, sending sequined suits and a trio of evening capes down the grand staircase as part of what he called an “eleganza extravaganza.”
Although based in New York, Christian Cowan brought his signature camp aesthetic to Paris, telling the head of WWD’s Paris office that the city has “always been synonymous with true creativity and mastering your craft.” Here’s the fluffy one white mini skirt can be seen.
Demna also returned to his hardcore antics in the French capital after a rather tame Balenciaga collection in the fall. “It all felt visceral, nervous and intrusive,” WWD international editor Miles Socha wrote of this season’s mammoth tailoring, four-sleeve bomber jackets and slightly distressed siren dresses. Demna’s nearest and dearest models were part of the mixed casting, including his husband Loik Gomez, who wore a wedding dress for the finale.
Meanwhile, Dutch designer Duran Lantik scoured the Balenciaga archives for outdated material to upcycle for his padded separates, which have been generating major hype online this fashion month. His “models may have been swimming,” WWD general assignment editor Rhonda Richford teased, “with life jackets turned into parkas or buoys doubled as bikini tops.”
Ultra-modern labels such as Chopova Lowena, GCDS and Natasha Zinko also showed off a toned male body with playful transparencies, shortened lengths and underwear.